Transcript
  • 00:00    |    
    INITIAL CREDITS
  • 00:17    |    
    Hi, this is Evan, in the Restoration Room of the Library Ludwig von Mises in Universidad Francisco Marroquín.
  • 00:25    |    
    What I'll be doing today is a continuation of the first part of what's called "the double fan adhesive rebinding"
  • 00:32    |    
    it's for soft cover books and what I already have here is a book where the margin has been chopped off, re-adhered,
  • 00:43    |    
    so all the pages have been re-tipped together with a polyester cloth lining,
  • 00:50    |    
    and so what I'm going to do is take the original covers, not reinforce them, not paste them down but rather hinge them on and kind of guard themn on to the spine front and back,
  • 01:00    |    
    and then put on a new spine label which we've made also.
  • 01:05    |    
    So, this is a technique that you would like to do for, for books which have some aesthetic value,
  • 01:13    |    
    and therefore you wouldn't want to put directly into a hardcover binding or a new case,
  • 01:19    |    
    and is rather safe forward, it's actually simpler than making a new case and doing a complete rebinding.
  • 01:27    |    
    So, it's pretty effective for small to mid size research libraries superior collections.
  • 01:33    |    
    MATERIALS
  • 01:35    |    
    Paper knife or bookbinder's knife, t eflon bone folder, scissors, a microspatula, scalpel, a straight edge metal, PVA with brush,
  • 01:46    |    
    blotter, the hinge material, a weight that is moderate weight and also, then reemay,
  • 01:56    |    
    also finally, a material we need: a newsprint or craft paper. It will help if you have a wooden board and a weight.
  • 02:03    |    
    PROCEDURE
  • 02:06    |    
    So what I'm going to do, like I said, we have the prepared text block already; it has end papers but it doesn't necessarily need to have endn papers,
  • 02:13    |    
    because what we would do is, we would just hinge on the covers to the guard here, to the over hanging text right here.
  • 02:22    |    
    Miter the edges here, just so they don't overhang outside of the cover, just to tie it up, basically,
  • 02:33    |    
    and you will be able to see this on the inside, so you do want to keep it clean.
  • 02:36    |    
    What I'm going to do first is glue out the top of this hinge, and then put on the correct cover.
  • 02:46    |    
    And you do want to get, make sure this is right side up, I want to emphasize that because you don't want to put your book on the wrong way.
  • 02:54    |    
    OK. This is just straight PVA. You could use mixed PVA with methyl cellulose but this should be a pretty straight forward procedure wheren straight PVA will be best.
  • 03:17    |    
    So, I'm just going to pull this out making sure not to get any of the excess glue on the inside. It's rather simple; I'm just going to put thisn down.
  • 03:28    |    
    If you've ever done a DFA before, you'll know that the margins on the spine get trimmed,
  • 03:34    |    
    and because the text block is getting trimmed, your cover may be oversize because that hasn't been trimmed.
  • 03:44    |    
    In this case, I trimmed the spine a little bit previously, so it fits well, but if your cover did overhang, keep in mind that you have to trimn that to make it work for your collection.
  • 03:57    |    
    So, I'm going to bone it down and I'm going to do the other side kind of quickly and then give it a small press.
  • 04:06    |    
    I do want to put something in here so you don't get like what I briefly got which was sticking of the pages.
  • 04:13    |    
    So, I'm going to put in some blotter and reemay, ideally. There is reemay around if you want to put that in.
  • 04:27    |    
    So, I'm doing the other side now, after I put some reemay in, and what I'm going to do is just do the other side.
  • 04:35    |    
    Reemay is spun polyester and it won't stick, it won't adhere to, very well to, any cloth or paper that you might get some glue on,
  • 04:48    |    
    so it's very useful when you want to just isolate some glue, or if you are going to glue something that is next to a lot of other papers like all the papers in a book are,
  • 04:59    |    
    so it's pretty useful when you're doing bookwork.
  • 05:04    |    
    You could give it a nip in the press but I don't think it needs it, it just needs, just a little bit of weight; this is pretty thin; this is prettyn thin material so...
  • 05:15    |    
    So, this is drying for a little bit. I can talk about what we are going to do next which is cover the hinges on the outside with paper joints.
  • 05:24    |    
    They really can be any paper but (including Japanese paper or long fabric tissue), but in this case I think a little heavier weight paper would ben better,
  • 05:35    |    
    so I just picked the western paper that I was lucky in that the color matched the color of the cover.
  • 05:41    |    
    So, I cut out these two sides, head and tail, and what I'll do is simply paste it on, overlapping a bit of the cover and then wrap it around then spine, and that's two, one for each side.
  • 05:53    |    
    The spine piece wasn't able to be saved from the original that was prepared, so it was too degraded a lot of tape on it,
  • 05:59    |    
    so what we did was just took the title and the author and made a new label for it on normal paper.
  • 06:07    |    
    In the past I've made paper and I've been thought to make labels on a 100% cotton paper but that can be expensive and hard to find a lot of then times.
  • 06:15    |    
    So what you would like to do is to consolidate it by using something like Klucel G, which is a chemical you can find and make, and that's also kind ofn expensive,
  • 06:25    |    
    but in this case we may do it with methyl cellulose which is also a consolidant that is much cheaper, much more common, in labs and all aroundn the world, so...
  • 06:36    |    
    we consolidated front and back by just, by just painting methyl cell all of the front, letting it dry and painting all over the back, letting itn dry.
  • 06:44    |    
    So this is ready to be pasted on.
  • 06:47    |    
    We'll do all the adhering with PVA, and this should be good. It should be well stuck at this point.
  • 06:58    |    
    So, we can start doing the outside hinges with these... And they came up well. OK.
  • 07:15    |    
    And there's a little, a little stuck there, t hat was more than I would like,
  • 07:30    |    
    and yeah that was quite a bit more than I would like, but, that's because I didn't put the reemay on soon enough, so let that be a lesson,n but...
  • 07:41    |    
    So we'll continue now using the hinges that we precut, head and tail, an d what I'm going to do is, I'm going to put a tiny bit of glue along the spinen of the cover,
  • 07:58    |    
    I'm going to glue out the hinge and then I'm just going to connect both, and we precut this to cover most of the spine but not all of it,
  • 08:09    |    
    and you could vary your length, you could probably go, you could probably even make one piece if you really wanted to,
  • 08:19    |    
    but two pieces would give it much more stability because each one would act as its own, each one would have its on guard, basically, instead of bothn being some sort of made chief case.
  • 08:49    |    
    Something like this repair or this technique is going to be more common in your special collections, i f you have a lot of soft cover specialn collections,
  • 08:59    |    
    where your original covers are very important and they pretty much must be saved, so you'll find this technique used pretty often there.
  • 09:24    |    
    So I'm putting it down about millimeter and a half over the cover, and I'm just going to bone down the first part, the first edge,
  • 09:43    |    
    and wipe off any excess glue if there is, and then I'm going to curl it over with my palm,
  • 09:51    |    
    and just kind of lightly press it down, you don't really want to rubber it at this point, because the paper is soft and it's such a hard edge for then paper,
  • 09:59    |    
    if you mess with it too much, and too quickly and too harshly it's just going to rip, and not stay in the place you usually put it.
  • 10:08    |    
    So I'm just going to clean this up, and now I can begin to bone it down, strain it a little bit.
  • 10:14    |    
    PVA is a nice, a nice glue to work with, when you don't really, or when you, when it's advantageous to have a quick drying time.
  • 10:27    |    
    I want this tied, this joint, now this one's on, I'm ready to do the other side.
  • 10:35    |    
    To also reduce the breaking edge that your cover might.... is going to have, you could also set the cover maybe an inch or so,
  • 10:45    |    
    oh I'm sorry, maybe a millimeter or so away from the spine, moving it over, just a bit over.
  • 10:53    |    
    But that's a personal choice too; the book is going to work just as well, by the way.
  • 11:09    |    
    A similar color, we were lucky that the spine was a similar color to the covers, because it looks almost seamless.
  • 11:18    |    
    And this will work as a book with pretty strong hinges that have been reinforced, so I think this is a short prepared, easy to do, useful, and itn looks great.
  • 11:34    |    
    So the last part, we have a book, again, it's great, it's ready to go, so all we have to do is make a new label for it,
  • 11:40    |    
    which, like I mentioned before, has already been done, already been consolidated with a consolidant such as methyl cell, or Klucel G, so In just need to, I'm just going to cut it out and paste it on with PVA.
  • 12:13    |    
    The most important thing is to ensure that all goes down smoothly, basically in others words that your edges don't rock up,
  • 12:23    |    
    so when it gets used in your institution or in your library, it won't fall off.
  • 12:40    |    
    You can also use the line press or another press where you can get it on the spine a little bit easier but this is only one off, so it should ben fine,
  • 12:52    |    
    and you can do this by eye or you can do it mechanically by ensuring or by splitting the spine into sections measuring them
  • 13:02    |    
    and getting it right down the middle, but, by eye usually, usually works pretty well.
  • 13:23    |    
    So I'm going to bone it down a little bit more and then after a minute, I just want to make sure that the edges aren't going to rock up,
  • 13:29    |    
    and if they do a little bit, I'm going to insert more PVA, just to put down those edges,
  • 13:35    |    
    and I can see this edge right here, is once to come up a tiny bit, so it's going to take a tiny bit of glue and drop it.
  • 13:59    |    
    And there you have it, you have the second half of a book that's already been, whose text block has already been consolidated and who just got an reinforced cover, soft cover.
  • 14:17    |    
    FINAL CREDITS


Book Reparation and Conservation (Workshop 2)

New Media  | 17 de julio de 2009  | Vistas: 13

In the second video of the series on book reparation and conservation, Evan Knight shows the steps for binding a soft cover book; hinging and guarding the original covers to the spine front and back, and putting a new spine label.

 

 

 


Conferencista

Evan Knight is a conservation technician at the Benson Latin American…

IDEAS DE LA LIBERTAD

Nuestra misión es la enseñanza y difusión de los principios éticos, jurídicos y económicos de una sociedad de personas libres y responsables.

Universidad Francisco Marroquín